DETOURS
Clods and Monsters
Location: In Big Bend Ranch State Park, 26 miles west of the Barton Warnock Visitor Center BY PAM LEBLANC WALKING AMONG the weird spires of rock that sprout like giant mushrooms in Big Bend Ranch State Park feels like wandering the set of the original Star Trek series. The sand-colored hoodoos—some as tall as a two-story building—look otherworldly, but they developed natu- rally. Eons of wind and rain have scrubbed away softer materials such as fine-grained mudstone and porous tu at the base of the columns, leaving caps of hardened rock at the top. Use your imagination and you might see a human-shaped figure, a lumpy rendition of a troll, or a colossal bird egg balanced on a pedestal. These “fairy towers” famously appeared in the closing scenes of Boy- hood, Richard Linklater’s 2014 coming-of-age drama. An easy stop if you’re driving through the park, the Hoodoos Trail is about a mile long. If you’re not up for the walk, a shaded picnic table oers views of the hoodoos, the Rio Grande, and Mexico beyond.
acres, “they’re usually just cud chewing and wallowing and walking around like they have all day to do nothing,” says Na- talie Smith, a park interpreter. Still, she warns visitors to stay at least fifty yards, or half the length of a football field, away from a bison—and even more during rutting season, which typically lasts from June to September, when they can be aggressive. “If you get two bulls that are equally dominant and are physically equals, they can fight, and they will,” says park superintendent Donald Beard. “We have had bulls killed by other bulls.”
The bison at Caprock Canyons State Park, in the Panhandle, default to photogenic docility, as befits a noble symbol of the American West. They are the descendants of five herds, in- cluding one created by Charles and Mary Ann Goodnight, who in 1878 rescued several calves during the great slaughter that made the once plenti- ful bovines a rarity. There are other herds on private land, but Caprock’s has been designat- ed the o cial herd of Texas, a celebrity status the bison seem unaware of. Mostly unrued by the campers and day hikers who visit the park’s 15,314
YIKES. HOW DO I AVOID IRRITATING A BISON? Leave appropriate space be- tween yourself and any animal capable of tap dancing on your organs, and look out for signs of agitation. “If their tail is in the air, like it’s flagging, you need to step back,” says Smith. Ditto if it’s swinging its head from side to side. WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I’M BEING CHARGED BY ONE? Beard says, “If you get into a situation where you’ve been charged, it’s too late.”
The Caprock Bison CRITTER OF THE MONTH
OH. —Lauren Larson
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